AMSTERDAM

The electric colours of the graffiti are a blur, as the train from Schipol speedily rattles into Centraal Station.

Disembark, and the tram bells, ringing out over the din and hustle of the city, welcome you to Amsterdam.

Comprised of seven distinct districts – Oude Kerk, Nieuwe Kerk, Central, Eastern and Western Canal ring, Museum Quarter and Plantage – Amsterdam remains a unique and edgy city, where cultural heritage coexists with a slightly sordid underworld.

The infamous Red Light District remains a popular tourist attraction. Today, it is referred to as “de Walletjes” (the little walls) and is criss-crossed by a series of tiny lanes, all lined with garish sex shops and seedy clubs. In the night, the alleys assume a rather sinister ambience; but during the day, they seem almost festive. Recently, an array of designer clothing shops have opened in the area, where windows of lifeless mannequins lay scattered between those of half-naked prostitutes. It is a strange, almost comical, juxtaposition.

But there is more to Amsterdam than its rather insalubrious reputation.

The city’s three major canals - Herengracht, Keizergracht and Prisengracht – also provide a gateway to a network of narrow streets and waterways.

Cobblestone streets are lined with elegant 17^th century canal houses, many boasting quirky shops and galleries, selling anything from vintage clothing and antiques to books and magazines. There are also several bars and traditional “brown” cafes, which spill out onto the sidewalk with the smallest glimpse of sunshine.

One rather quaint café overlooking Singelgracht, which stood out very prettily with its canary-yellow canopy, was rumoured by locals to bake the best apple pie.

In only a few days, a visitor can experience much of what Amsterdam has to offer.

Eat your fill of pancakes, and spend an afternoon riding a bicycle through Vondelpark; visit the unrivalled collection of Dutch art at the Rijksmuseum, or the artist’s early work at the Van Gogh museum; climb the narrow stairway to the “annex” at Anne Frank Huis. In the evening, head for the vibrant Leidesplein, see a play at the Stradsschouwburg Theatre, or listen to a variety of live music at the Paradiso.

So whether it’s the allure of the night, or the attraction of bohemia, Amsterdam is a city to be enjoyed by all.